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“TEARS OF A CLOWN WHEN THERE’S NO ONE AROUND”

Can that phrase apply to a place? If so, I believe I’ve been there, a city surprisingly festive in appearance, yet deeply tragic underneath. Phnom Penh, Cambodia is not on the beaten path for most travelers. That is understandable, considering how remote it is, and how awful its recent history. In fact, Cambodia was once a rollicking success, possibly the world’s leading civilization. But that was a thousand years ago, and not much good has happened since.
I found myself in Phnom Penh on the fourth and final leg of an educational consulting trip taken by my wife, Katie, that included stops in Hong Kong, Borneo, Vietnam and Cambodia. Initially only contracted to speak at a conference in Borneo, I suggested, semi-facetiously, that she correspond with international schools in some other Asian countries. “After all, you’ll be in the neighborhood.” Faster than I could say “there’s no way I can sit on an airplane for eighteen hours,” she filled our three-week itinerary, and informed me my attendance was mandatory.
Not being an enthusiastic world traveler, I didn’t conduct research into our destinations. Admittedly, such ignorance prevented me from developing a sense of positive excitement and anticipation. But it also preserved the element of surprise. While our first three stops largely confirmed my uninformed pre-conceptions, namely: Hong Kong is BUSY; Borneo is TROPICAL; and Hanoi is GRIM; Phnom Penh was a shocker.
First, I thought Hanoi and Phnom Penh would have similar weather. After five days of grey drizzle in Hanoi, which I learned is the norm in November, I was delighted to land in brilliant sunshine and warmth in Cambodia. It turns out Phnom Penh is 660 miles south of Hanoi, roughly as far apart as Chapel Hill is from Chicago. So, yes, the weather can be much better.
Next, in further contrast with Hanoi, riding in a hotel van from the airport, I saw that Phnom Penh is a city of wide boulevards, tree-filled medians, and stunning, golden temples. Flashy flower gardens and statues surround public buildings like some cross between Caesars Palace and the Getty Museum. If you never drove more than a block off the main roads you would think you were in a highly prosperous country.
Our hotel was a gracious, French-run oasis with tropical plants around a courtyard swimming pool. Just outside its gate was an entrance to a Buddhist Temple, the golden spires of which soared into sight from the poolside tiki bar. Where was the Cambodia of Pol Pot, of war, of genocide?
Katie’s consulting took place on the day after our arrival. Since I was nursing the inevitable souvenir of Hanoi, a sinus infection, I chose not to venture out alone but to stay poolside. There, at the breakfast buffet, my UNC tee-shirt garnered attention. Not equating the initials with basketball, as would most Americans, an older gentleman with a European accent asked: “What agency are you with?”
“I’m just visiting with my wife,” I said.
“Oh, you’re not with the U.N. for Cambodia?” he said, indicating my shirt.
“No, no, that’s University of North Carolina,” I said.
He looked surprised. “In the States?”
“Yes,” I said.
“Don’t see many of you folks over here,” he said. “I’m from Denmark. My colleagues are from Sweden, Germany, Holland and Austria,” he added, indicating a table full of earnestly chatting men and women.
“What are you doing here?” I asked.
“The genocide tribunal,” he said, as though it were common knowledge that one existed.
After I gathered a plate of fruit and toast, my friend invited me to sit at the end of their long table. “This gent’s an American,” he said, by way of introduction.
The people all looked at me with interest. Anticipating their curiosity, he explained: “He’s not with the U.N. He’s touring with his wife, from North Carolina, the basketball place.”
Thus introduced, I learned from the group that the European Union had funded a tribunal to examine the Cambodian genocide that took place in the 1970’s. Lawyers and judges had been rotating through Phnom Penh for several years, sifting evidence and, finally, bringing to trial several old colleagues of Pol Pot. His murderous regime had swept to power at the end of the Vietnam War, taking advantage of the chaos created partially by our bombing, and he had killed three to four million people, a quarter of the population, before being driven off, ironically, by the sworn enemy of Cambodians, the Vietnamese. They installed a puppet government in the early 1980’s that continues to rule to this day as a dictatorship, though Cambodia is, nominally, a democracy. (The foregoing is a VAST over-simplification; the subject commands volumes of books and treatises for those interested in learning more. Opponents of the regime have recently earned publicity, though Syria, Ukraine, winter weather and a disappearing airplane have kept coverage to a minimum).
“You must all be so depressed, studying such an awful subject,” I said to the assembly.
“Oh, no,” said a woman. “This is a wonderful posting.”
“It’s got the best cuisine,” said a man.
“Much better than Rwanda,” said another.
“I’ll say,” agreed the woman. “That place was brutal.”
It occurred to me that she did not mean “brutal” in the sense of murderous, but “brutal” in the sense that there was nowhere decent to eat.
Further discussion revealed that genocide study and “bringing to justice” is a growth industry, and a wonderful way to top off a career, with various tribunals having been established by the United Nations, the European Union, and the Hague for recent history’s worst depredations. In addition to Cambodia, these include Bosnia, Darfur, Rwanda and Kurdistan. Doubtless, European lawyers and judges will be packing for Syria in several years. I am NOT suggesting these horrors should be ignored or efforts to hold perpetrators accountable are not worthwhile; however, some participants clearly view the assignments as plum career opportunities and speak as expertly on the hospitality prospects of the various holocausts as on the legal responsibilities involved.
Back to sightseeing: We had an additional day to spend in Phnom Penh before traveling to see the ancient temples at Angkor Wat. “What are the best things in town to visit?” I asked the concierge.
“The most popular tourist site is the ‘killing fields,’” said the young Frenchman. “You can see thousands of skulls and skeletons.”
Not sure how to respond to that, I asked: “How long a trip is that?”
“Just in the suburbs, about an hour by tuk-tuk,” he said, referring to the local transportation mode, a sort of taxi with two seats attached to the rear of a soot and noise-belching motorbike.
I knew the “killing fields” were a critical part of Cambodian history, and I didn’t want to be disrespectful, but we had just spent several days in Hanoi, where we dutifully visited the POW prison and several war museums, and I was hoping for something less horrifying. “Is there anything else?” I asked.
“Oh, yes,” he said. “You can take a tuk-tuk tour around the royal section of town and the museums.”
“That sounds great,” I said, relieved to have a non-genocidal option.
The next morning, we hopped on one of the many tuk-tuks waiting outside the hotel. For the equivalent of $10, we could travel for the whole day with a driver who would double as a guide, language-skills allowing. Once we adjusted or, more accurately, capitulated to the quirks of tuk-tuk travel, we were struck again by the beauty of Phnom Penh’s avenues. Green and beautiful, and relatively free of traffic, the city is built alongside the massive Mekong River. The strikingly broad (picture the width of the Hudson times three) artery rolls along languidly, supporting colorful boats and several optimistically low-slung bridges. The river is doubtless a hazard during storms but posed no threat during our visit.
“There, palace,” said our driver, in halting English, pointing towards a complex of massive buildings looming ahead. “There silver pagoda.”
Indeed, around 1906, with French assistance, Cambodia’s king constructed a palace covered in jewels and an adjoining pagoda covered in solid silver, including the floor! Both the palace and pagoda have survived the various wars; even the most depraved of Cambodia’s despots have deemed it useful to keep the king in place, usually as a puppet, though sometimes as a prisoner.
Our driver dropped us off at the entrance. We strolled the beautiful gardens and hallways of the palace and were allowed to look into the pagoda, though walking on the silver floor is forbidden. I urge readers to google the stunning palace complex; it would take infinite verbiage to describe, whereas pictures are instantaneous for your benefit and mine. Though the sky was sparkling, there were few other visitors and virtually no locals.
When we emerged, it was lunchtime. Several vendors offered roasted snacks that consisted of something between “you don’t want to know” and “you wouldn’t believe it if I told you.”
“Those aren’t birds, are they?” I asked one vendor sitting behind a pyramid of bite-sized morsels that appeared to have beaks.
“Sparrows very good,” he said.
Noting another vender turning a large rotisserie over a flame, I whispered to Katie: “That looks like a dog.”
“That is a dog,” she confirmed.
Though we had managed to try street food in Hong Kong and even Borneo, this was beyond our level of ambition. We chose to eat the nuts and crackers we had in our pockets and wait for a real meal at dinner at a French restaurant near our hotel.
After our snack, we asked the driver what else we might see. I noted that he, like most Cambodians, was extremely short of stature. At six-feet, I could have been a candidate for center of the national basketball team, if there were one. Nutrition or genetics, or a combination, have made for a diminutive population. I censored a speculation about the food.
“What about a neighborhood, where people live?” I asked. “We haven’t seen anything but the main streets.”
He shook his head slowly. “Not nice to see.”
“We won’t mind,” said Katie. “We’d like to see something interesting.”
Our driver shrugged. “I will drive you through apartment streets on the way to Central School. That will be interesting for you.”
“That sounds good,” I said, thinking we would see the local high school.
The driver was correct about the residential areas. The several blocks we saw were not “nice” but they were “interesting.” Within one block of the main boulevard we encountered rows of four-five story, deteriorating tenements, moldy and laundry-covered. A riot of wires hung between buildings. Sewage and garbage filled the gutters and there was a cacophony of screaming babies, squealing generators and shouting adults. Riding in our tuk-tuk like colonial pashas, we received mostly blank stares and some hostile ones. It was as though we were looking at animals caged in a zoo. Our driver sped up. “Not safe here,” he said. “Let’s go to the school.”
Katie and I nodded immediate agreement, and we found ourselves back to clean, leafy peace after just a few hundred yards. Not too far from the palace area we arrived at the Central School. What our driver had not made clear was that the Central High School of Phnom Penh had become the central PRISON during Pol Pot’s regime, and was now a tourist site. (“attraction” seems an inappropriate word to describe it). Behind walls and a high, green fence was a two-story plaster building central to the recent history of Phnom Penh — basically, the local version of the “killing fields.” In fact, as we learned during our tour of the building, the Central Prison was, for thousands of victims, a final, miserable stop on the way to the killing fields.
Information boards at the school explained that during Pol Pot’s reign of terror from 1975-1979, educated people were killed, people who wore glasses were killed, and even merely literate people were killed as being, presumably, able to read. People who spoke back to Pol Pot’s troops, the Khmer Rouge, were killed and people who even established eye contact were killed. Not to favorably compare Hitler to anyone, but he definitely had a plan — Pol Pot and his followers never articulated any purpose or rationale for their indiscriminate slaughter.
Our guide at the school/prison was an older woman who spoke excellent English. She explained that Pol Pot, like Hitler, recognized that such bare essentials as clothing were necessary for his soldiers. Therefore, people with sewing and related skills were able to delay their slaughter for weeks or months at the former school facility. They spent their days working as slaves amidst terror and murder where even uttering a word was the basis for torture or death.
There is no furniture at the school, just classrooms filled with black and white, numbered photographs of those who were imprisoned there, taped to the walls from floor to ceiling. Again, in eerie similarity to Nazi practices, the Khmer Rouge kept close count of their victims. When the Vietnamese liberated the facility, a stunning total of seven survivors were present from 25,000 who had come through the gates. One of those survivors was still alive when we visited in 2011 and came to the school each day to lead tours.
We were speechless during our sun-splashed ride back to the hotel. Dinner was at an elegant restaurant a block from our hotel, professionally served amidst French-inspired opulence. We were still numb from the afternoon sights, I recall. But we were able to look forward to the next day’s journey out-of-town to the temples at Angkor Wat, at least until our waiter told us to make certain we returned to our hotel before ten.
“What happens at ten?” I asked.
“That’s when the shooting begins,” he said.
“What shooting?” skeptical of this new twist.
“Gangs, government thugs, criminals, all sorts of stuff happens here after ten. Tourists should not be out,” he said.
“You’re serious?” I said.
“Yes, unfortunately. Phnom Penh may look quiet,” he said, “but all is not as it seems.”
That, I think, is a tremendous understatement.


A FRIENDLY FLIGHT TO NORTH VIETNAM

A number of recent stories have been based in, or inspired by, our visits to Central America. Several readers have requested a bit of variety and suggested such tried and true locales as Canada or England or even a primitive society like South Carolina. To provide a bit of diversity, below is a report from a visit to North Vietnam, a place not always at the top of the list when people ponder the garden spots of the world. I was apprehensive traveling to a place traditionally known here for napalm and mayhem, but I was surprised in several respects. So, if you have not already traveled to southeast Asia, I aim to accomplish one of the following: whet your appetite to do so, or spare you several extremely long plane flights.

This trip came about in 2011 when my wife, Katie, was asked by the State Department to “present” at a five-day conference of International Educators in Borneo, Malaysia. (Itself a long story.) When she told me about this “opportunity” and explained the complex travel arrangements, I said, with a large dollop of facetiousness, “Why don’t you just go to Cambodia and Laos and Vietnam while you’re at it? They’re in the neighborhood.”
I am married to someone who does not recognize, or chooses to ignore, facetiousness, and is excellent at “making things happen.” Within a week, she had scheduled consulting appearances at schools in Hong Kong, Hanoi and Phnom Penh and informed me that I was coming along for a three-week odyssey in the role of “schlepper.”
Never fond of long distance travel, I launched protests on several fronts, hoping that one would stick: “What good will I do there? I can’t sit on an airplane for twenty hours. Someone needs to stay home to collect the mail and newspapers.” She looked at me as only a wife can and shot down my arguments with a response that somehow combined the endearing with the totally unfair: “If you love me, you will go.”
After the Hong Kong and Malaysian legs of the journey, we arrived in Hanoi late one evening via Vietnam Airlines. Too exhausted to register many initial impressions, I awoke the next morning to discover us installed in an elegant, marble-filled boutique hotel in the city’s French District (for a mere $66/night, I might add). Following a gourmet made-to-order breakfast of crepes, served by notably kind and attentive staff, whatever preconceived apprehensions I had of North Vietnam were melting. A taxi arrived to deliver Katie to the school where she was consulting. Alone for the day, I consulted a ten-year-old guidebook I’d borrowed from the library at home which indicated we were in the middle of a neighborhood of architectural wonders. I looked forward to a walk.
Unfortunately, exiting the hotel was like opening the gates of hell: from splendor to filth; from tranquility to clamor. Reputedly, Chinese drivers ignore traffic signals; Costa Ricans use both sides of the road; and Germany’s autobahn lacks speed limits. In my experience, only in Hanoi do they combine all these elements so terrifyingly. To pause to look up at the French-inflected architectural elements is nearly suicidal, as roaring motor-bikes race to and fro, even on the sidewalks, within inches of each other.
I retreated wide-eyed back inside the lobby.
“Is this normal?” I asked the impeccably-dressed clerk, dwarfed behind a vast, imposing counter made of mahogany atop a marble base.
“Oh, yes,” he explained, smiling. “People very busy.”
“What’s with the motor-bikes?” I asked. Brandishing my guidebook, I said: “This has pictures of people on bicycles.”
“Yes, they used to ride bicycles. Now everyone wants motor,” he said. “China makes them very cheap. I will show you how to walk.”
In his pin-striped charcoal suit, he emerged from behind his desk. I felt embarrassed to be dressed in a sweatshirt and sneakers amidst such elegance. He put his arm through mine and led me out the door again.
“Like this,” he said, wading into the street while drivers went around us like we were stones in a river. “Never stop. Never look up.
“But what if they are headed right at me?” I said.
“They usually make necessary change,” he said, unconcerned.
He walked me back and forth across the street several times until I thought I nearly had the hang of it. Still, it is not natural to step off a curb into traffic and assume the drivers will adjust. When I thanked him for his assistance and set off on my own, I wondered for a moment if I would ever see him or Katie again.
At ground level, the French quarter of Hanoi mixed more smells and sounds than I could reasonably enjoy. Besides the traffic, I was especially dismayed by old women frying dumplings over open flames in the middle of sidewalks. After thirty minutes of sneaking glances at French-inflected facades, I decided I’d had enough of the French district and took a taxi to the government section of town where there are broad avenues (good for military parades) and huge bureaucratic buildings surrounded by high walls. A particular “highlight” is Ho Chi Min’s mausoleum. At all of these buildings, it is notable that unsmiling armed guards patrol on foot and no photographs are allowed. Merely taking the camera out of my pocket caused a soldier to run over shaking his arms and head “no, no, no!” The words that came to mind were “austere” and “humorless,” in marked contrast to the pleasantness at the hotel.
The next day, Katie and I went together to see the prison where American POW’s were held, commonly referred to as “The Hanoi Hilton” and the lake in the center of town from which John McCain’s plane was retrieved. A chilly drizzle accompanied us and fit the mood of the sights. The prison was appropriately primitive and filled with low-tech exhibits. For instance, there were photographs of prisoners looking contrite and photographs of guards looking virtuous. Typed 3 x 5 cards, yellow with age, explained what we were seeing. The most interesting aspect was that the prison was in the middle of a busy neighborhood and almost indistinguishable from its surroundings. The prisoners would doubtless have heard the sounds of daily life all around them, for better or worse. A particularly touching collection of photos showed gaunt prisoners surrounding a tiny Christmas tree. It was intended to show humanity; to me, the awful prison for brave men who were shot down while bombing the country where we were guests created cognitive dissonance too great to process. We were speechless when we left.
After the prison, we thought the botanical gardens would be a relief. Instead, while they did allow for a quiet stroll, the gardens were most notable for having no flowers. Yes, it was late October, not springtime, but still, there were no mums, no colors of any sort. The only pizzazz and relief from the dour green of a dreary day were several brides being photographed. They wore white or red gowns. We shivered with empathy to see their exposed shoulders in the autumnal chill.
After a day highlighted by a prison and a flowerless garden, we looked forward to traveling to Halong Bay the next day where we’d scheduled a 36-hour boat trip. On the map, it looked close, but actually required a four-hour ride in a tourist van. At first, we crawled through rush-hour; it is ironic how aggressively capitalist the residents of Hanoi appear decades after fighting so tenaciously to protect their Communist way of life. Little old ladies fanned out amidst bumper-to-bumper traffic moving dust around with brooms.  Others hawked loaves of bread or bottles of water. At first, there was no escaping either the dust or the traffic.  Eventually, on the outskirts of Hanoi, rice paddies appeared beside the road being worked by hand or with the assistance of water buffaloes. It was striking how quickly modernity gave way to a slice-of-life that looks unchanged from centuries earlier. The vivid green of the paddies would have been pretty if there were sunshine, which apparently there is not in Hanoi between mid-October and late April.
After the city was fully left behind, the road proceeded through smaller towns and villages, where the most notable and curious elements were piles of rubble.  It appeared the area was bombed and never repaired. America did destroy much of Hanoi in the early 1970’s, but can we still be to blame?
 It was as though the government piled an allotment of bricks on each property twenty years ago and, in the interim, the piles have begun to fall over.  Very mysterious.  When I asked the driver if he knew what the bricks were for, he just shrugged. The bricks were interrupted occasionally by piles of mud or trash.  In short, it was a very discouraging landscape. To my surprise, ostentatious mansions appeared amidst the shanties and hovels that predominated. When asked, the bus driver shook his head and said: “politicians.”
 In any event, when we finally arrived at Halong Bay, we were somewhat pessimistic about our boat trip.  After all, when the van driver pointed to a beaten-up pier and said “That is where you board your junk” it was not a phrase that inspired confidence. Our concern was further stoked when we overheard the Australian tourist in front of us say to his companions: “Did you hear about the junk that sank last month? Eight blokes were killed.”
   Considering the foregoing, the reader will be nearly as relieved as we were that Halong Bay turned out to be a wonder of the world! Google it to see an inkling of what we saw.  The scenery was out-of-this-world fantastic and memorable.
 A cynic might suggest that some entrepreneur will promote rock-climbing expeditions in a few years and ruin it but, so far, Nature’s original is still pristine. 1,969 separate limestone islands stand like sentinels in the mist. Again, sunshine might have made them even more visible but the mist/gloom enhanced the eerie quality.  Waking up early in our tiny cabin on the second day, we gazed out the port-hole as dawn slowly lit the mini-mountains through which we were sailing. Spectral is the word that came to mind.
Our “junk,” though not to be mistaken for the QE II, was immaculate and the crew strikingly friendly in a subservient sort of way; I will expect to be called “sir” by everyone from this time forth.  They fed us three ample meals each day though the source-animal was sometimes questionable. In fact, as a result of seeing some of the animals available as street food in Southeast Asia, I now focus on fish as a larger percent of my diet than that of most residents of Tahiti.
   We returned in the afternoon to our Hanoi hotel and went out for one final dinner before packing for Cambodia.  The next morning, when our plane topped the clouds, it occurred to us we had not seen blue sky and un-hazy sunshine since North Carolina two weeks earlier.  This lack was cured during our stopover in Laos, of all places. After all, what would be a trip without an hour in Vientienne? Anyway, the air was hot and bright, and the airport was colorful and flowery. Even Stalin’s statue appeared to have a smile.  As I learned at Halong Bay, traveling holds many surprises.


FOOL ME ONCE…
“You’ll deal with issues like where the playground swings should be and what kind of trees should be planted in the common areas.”
The disembodied voice of Fred Karner, the developer of our vacation community, crackled through the long-distance connection from Costa Rica. Fred was over seventy, but had the hearty confidence of a lion of the business world. He was physically robust and bragged in our first meeting of having cleared part of the land with his own machete.
“But we won’t be down there often enough,” I said. “I’d miss most meetings. I won’t know what’s going on.”
“That’s okay,” soothed Fred. “We’ll conduct them by teleconference, if necessary. And I’ll be on-site almost every day. We really could use someone with your expertise. Everyone will appreciate your efforts and you will hardly have to do anything.”
Fred was pressing me to join him and one other landowner as a member of the Board of Directors at our vacation community in Playa Hermosa. He knew I was a real estate lawyer and seemed to assume I had broad expertise in the field. In fact, my expertise was in explaining mortgages, attempting to calm anxious clients over the telephone, and facilitating the particular and peculiar home-buying process in New Jersey; my knowledge of “association law” and “board of directors’ responsibility” was minimal.
“There won’t be any thorny issues?” I asked.
“Trust me,” said Fred.
“Uh-oh,” I thought to myself.
My reluctance to serve stemmed from a natural aversion to meetings. For better or worse, my “law firm” consisted of me, one associate and a secretary. I did not have meetings. I did not “consult.” Not to align myself with George W. Bush, but I was the “decider.” Over the years, I had refused various opportunities to work with partners or to invest with others in title companies and lenders. In almost every case, I was relieved months or years later when I heard about the failures of these enterprises, and the unhappy endings of friendships smashed on the shoals of recriminations. When it came to business relations, my default position was to remain simple, safe and uninvolved.
Yet, owning property in a distant country was an exciting departure from my routine. When I visited Costa Rica, I was willing to do things I would never do in New Jersey: I leapt off cliffs into rushing water; I fished in the ocean without a life preserver; and, I propelled myself over gorges on zip-lines only tenuously strapped-in by fifteen-year-old attendants. Just writing this, ten years later, makes me nauseous.
So it was not too much of a leap for me to take a deep breath, suppress my better judgment one more time, and say to Fred: “Okay, I’ll do it.” After all, I reasoned, it will be good to know what’s going on in the community. Plus, how unpleasant can the placement of playground equipment be? Also, there was already a project I wanted to influence; the fence around the community tennis court was facing the wrong direction – the support poles were on the inside – as a Director, I was sure I could influence the situation.
The first meeting of the Board and homeowners was scheduled in Fred’s living room during my next visit. I was so certain the meeting would be short and enjoyable that I brought along my twelve-year-old son, Sam. We were the first to arrive and reveled in Fred’s breathtaking view over the tropical forest to the Pacific Ocean. After saying hello, Sam went out in the yard to explore the gardens and pond.
In a few minutes, a dozen or so property owners arrived, introduced themselves, and chit-chatted amicably over wine and cheese. I felt increasingly joyous for the opportunity to be a leader in a community of such accomplished and interesting people. I learned that one homeowner studied rain forests on behalf of a European university; another was an international art dealer based in the Netherlands; there were entrepreneurs in scuba-diving and off-road adventures; and, Fred had started several companies in Canada and had eventually taken them public. As a small-town lawyer, I felt naive in terms of world-wide business experience. Perhaps, I deduced, my humdrum situation made Fred think of me as the appropriate person for dealing with the minor, low-key issues such a Board would confront.
Immersed in such thoughts, I was smiling contentedly when Fred called the meeting to order. “Our first issue today is to create a by-law banning the sub-division of any lots.”
A young man sitting next to me jumped up and asked, with an edge: “Why does lot 27 have an ‘A’, ‘B’ and ‘C?’”
“Because, as I’ve told you before,” said Fred, no longer sounding amiable, “that lot has already been sub-divided. It’s grandfathered.”
“That’s bull!” stated a woman sitting across from me.
“You’re a crook!” shouted the previously sedate art dealer.
“Who approved the sub-division in the first place?” asked the professor.
“The Board did,” said Fred.
“What?” I wondered to myself, startled. “The Board did what?”
“Who owns lot 27?” asked a woman.
“Who do you think? Fred owns it,” said the young man next to me, with venom.
I realized, unfortunately, I was not dreaming. This really WAS happening. My tropical community was turning out to be more like a snake’s den than a paradise.
Turning to me, the Dutchman said: “You’re on the Board. What do you say about this?”
I wanted to respond cogently but I was too stunned by the sudden turn-of-events to formulate my thoughts. For a moment, I focused on how enraged the man’s face was and how this manifested itself in his bulbous, alcoholic nose. Previously, I’d just thought of him as jolly.
“I’m new on the Board,” I finally offered. “I didn’t realize there were issues of this sort.”
I looked pointedly at Fred who immediately averted his eyes.
“Listen, everyone,” said Fred. “I have invested a lot of money in this community and put in a lot of work….”
“So what?” the forest scientist interrupted. “That doesn’t mean you can cheat.”
“That’s right, you’re committing fraud,” interjected others. The discussion devolved into an incomprehensible scrum.
Fred gestured towards the door. “I’m going to have to ask you all to leave my home. We can meet again when you can be civil.”
As my angry neighbors stormed out the front door and Fred disappeared into his bedroom, Sam squeezed his way in flushed with excitement.
“I saw a tree full of monkeys!” he said. “They were getting chased by like a hundred parrots!”
“Ah, yes,” I thought, “the wonders of nature in Costa Rica. If only we didn’t have to deal with humans.”
I tried to embrace Sam’s enthusiasm but was still preoccupied with the meeting, and wondering how I’d been duped. “That’s great,” I mustered. “You can tell me about it in the car.”
“Don’t you want to see them now?” asked Sam.
“Um, I think we have to go,” I said. There was no sign of Fred.
Over the next several months, I formed a telephone friendship with the third Director, a home owner who lived in Chicago named Bob. He’d also been bamboozled by Fred. He explained that Fred had used him to cudgel two homeowners into paying their full water bills even though they were excessive by thousands of dollars due to water main leakage that was arguably the developer’s, thus Fred’s, responsibility.
“If that happened to my water bill,” Bob had told Fred, “I would be pissed as hell, too.”
“That won’t happen to your bill,” said Fred. “I check the meter every day at your place. That’s a benefit of your being on the Board of Directors.”
“I still don’t think that’s right,” said Bob.
Sure enough, the following month, Bob’s water bill was $6,000, thirty times the usual amount. Fred told Bob he had to pay the bill or service would be shut off.
“I’m going to fight this,” said Bob.
“I know all the officials here,” said Fred. “You folks who live in the States except for a couple weeks a year won’t stand a chance.”
Fred became the face of evil for me. Playground equipment was never mentioned during subsequent conference calls that dealt with nasty disputes, boundary discrepancies, and subdivision complaints. Fred never failed to point out his advantage over the second home owners who were rarely on site. The thrill of owning a vacation home overlooking the ocean was swiftly eroding due to the stress of participating on the Board of Directors.
“Why don’t you quit?” asked everyone who heard about Fred.
My initial response was “I’d rather know what Fred is up to than have it come as a surprise.” Quickly, however, my viewpoint shifted to “ignorance is bliss.” Finally, I resigned from the Board and put the house up for sale. There were certainly non-Fred-related issues, such as poor property management, balky electricity, and leaky plumbing, but Fred played a huge role in sapping the foreign adventure of its joy.
In the subsequent decade, I turned down several opportunities to serve on boards. When we moved to a community in North Carolina, everyone who found out I had been an attorney suggested I join one committee or another. Most recently, a project to verify the title status of the nine hundred lots was launched. The Board wanted to alter the by-laws to prevent something or other from happening. The phone rang one evening, the caller identification indicating an acquaintance I knew to be a member of the Board of Directors.
“Stu, we have a project that’s right up your alley,” he said.
“I really don’t think I want to participate,” I said.
“But you did closings up in Jersey. You must be an expert on title searches,” he said.
“Not really,” I said, “that’s what we used title companies for. I explained mortgages.”
“Well, this job really will not be complex. We’re just making sure everyone’s ownership is in proper order,” he said.
“And if they aren’t?” I asked.
“Oh, I’m sure it can be resolved amicably,” he said. “Trust me.”
“Oops,” I said. “Someone’s at the door. Gotta go….”
I hung up. And I resolved not to call back.


SCRABBLE, ANYONE?

This story is about a ninety-six-year-old woman. I promise, however, it is not one of those heart-warming, tear-inducing tales of sweetness and light, of life gone by and now only the basis for retrospective adulation. No, this nonagenarian is still tough-minded and forceful, and can only be overcome by her opponents with intelligence, patience and what she would doubtless declare to be a lot of luck.
Rose Galfand is a Scrabble fanatic. She has rendered opponents miserable over a period longer than most people live. This woman, who never attended college, and studied shorthand as the high-point of her academic career, knows every letter of the Greek, Egyptian and Hebrew alphabets. She knows the monetary units of Latvia and Cambodia, and the spelling of every word that starts with “Q” and does not contain a “U.”
“Qat,” she explains, when questioned, “is the mild narcotic chewed by the male inhabitants of Yemen.”
Rose was not expected to live into the twenty-first century. In fact, persistent tuberculosis kept her bedridden for years in her late teens and provided an anxious drumbeat for her family throughout the 1930’s, when additional depressing circumstances were neither needed nor deserved.
While she was ill, an aspiring librarian named Sidney visited nearly every day. Rose initially referred to him as “The Nebish,” a word that hardly requires translation – it is not a compliment. He came to sit by her bed.
“Go away,” she said.
“No, honey-bun,” he replied.
“You’re bothering me,” she said.
“But I adore you, dearest,” he said, not the least bit discouraged.
He reached for her hand. She pulled it away.
“Please leave me alone,” she said.
Over many months, Sidney’s sheer persistence wore away her defenses. When they were married, the ceremony took place in the bedroom. Rose’s mother cried throughout the ceremony, perhaps for joy, but perhaps also for concern that her daughter would not survive. Sidney’s parents were livid, certain that their son was foolishly falling into a hopeless situation.
Defying the predictions of her doctors, Rose survived; she emerged from bed several months after the wedding. She found work as a secretary and, eventually, raised two daughters. She ran her household while Sidney rose up in the hierarchy of Philadelphia’s library system. Since money was never abundant, Rose decorated their home with art and crafts she had made herself. With Sidney’s dutiful help, she created beautiful gardens filled, appropriately, with rose bushes. As they progressed through life together, Rose came to appreciate the gift of Sidney’s love; yet, she never failed to roll her eyes at Sidney’s endearments, even while she luxuriated in them.
“Sweetheart,” he said, “let me rub your back.”
“If you want to,” she said, moving closer.
“Darling, can I make you some tea?” he asked.
“If it’s not too much trouble,” she said.
Decades before the evolution of “the sensitive male,” Sidney set an insurmountable standard for husbands. He died after sixty years of marriage. Rose mourned for her husband and it would have been understandable if she had faltered. But Rose carries on, full of “piss and vinegar,” to quote one of her favorite phrases. Though she has other interests, she has made a virtual religion of conservative, defensive-minded Scrabble. Accordingly, she pronounces principles that may as well be set on a tablet and carried down from a mountaintop.
“Never get stuck with a V or a C,” she instructs. “Always block the triple word spaces. Don’t squander an H or an F.”
When you play against Rose, she gums up the board with so many little words that it is nearly impossible to attach anything. If you take more than a moment to think, she is apt to drum her fingers and declare, forlornly: “You’re wearing me out.”
Rose is gracious in victory, not so much in defeat. “You had all the good letters,” she will note. “You really know how to pick.”
Rose is not apt to dwell on her longevity or to seek profound answers to the mystery of the meaning of life. “Life is like a Scrabble game,” she maintains. “You either get good letters or you don’t. Either way, you have to play them intelligently. And, if you happen to pick up an S, which I hardly ever do, don’t waste it.”


HOW ABOUT ETHIOPIAN?

A recent visit to our daughter’s new home in Brooklyn presented a welcome opportunity for us residents of a relatively non-ethnic enclave to enjoy some of the foods we have missed.  For three days, we ate bagels for breakfast, consumed exotic soups and salads for lunch, and gorged on all-things-Italian for dinner.  Finally, as our last evening approached, we had satisfied our need for pasta and pesto, and any food ending in “ini.”  It was time to sample the wide variety of choices for which Brooklyn is renowned.

“Do you like Thai?” asked our daughter, Kelly.

“We can find that in North Carolina,” said my wife.

“Okay, how do you feel about sushi?”

“No,” I said.  “I prefer my fish cooked.”

“Asian fusion?”

“Isn’t that passé?” I asked.  I didn’t really have any basis for the snarky question; I just wanted to sound like I was on top of the food scene.

The conversation proceeded to hit several more of the usual suspects of a gentrifying neighborhood.  I define that as a place where people in their thirties line up for at least an hour (baby carriage optional) in order to squeeze into as small and noisy a restaurant as possible, to pay as much money as possible, for as small a portion as possible, so that they can tell their friends they have “been there.”

Finally, Kelly must have sensed that she needed to stretch the bounds of culinary experience.  We may live in the hinterlands, after all, but we take pride in projecting some degree of sophistication when it comes to restaurants, even if that sophistication is largely manufactured.

“I bet you haven’t had Ethiopian cuisine,” she proclaimed.

“That sounds interesting,” said my wife.

Because Kelly’s fiancé was present, I did not mention that the first two words I considered when I heard “Ethiopian cuisine” were “famine” and “starvation.”  I am glad I did not, since such a comment would be crass; it is only for the sake of authorial integrity that I acknowledge the thought crossed my mind.  For some reason, everyone looked at me.

“I’m up for it,” I said, somewhat defensively. “What is it like?”

“Well,” Kelly said, “it can resemble baby food…”

I involuntarily raised an eyebrow.

“…but it’s really tasty.”

“Okay,” I said.  “Sounds great.”   I battened down both eyebrows and any other facial expression.

“We have to get there by five-thirty,” she warned.

“Dinner at five-thirty?”

“Otherwise, the line will be too long,” she explained.  “They don’t take reservations.”

It struck me as wildly improbable there would be a long line for pureed dinner but, as any parent knows, it is best to defer to one’s adult child on most subjects.  One has to save being disagreeable for important issues.  (Doubtless there are some stories there….)

After some hurried preparations, we walked several blocks to the small Ethiopian establishment.  I was impressed to see only one of its twelve tables was available.  Kelly was right; it was popular.  The other patrons represented the melting pot of Brooklyn society.  They were nearly shouting to be heard.  Snippets of heartfelt opinions on organic farmers markets, nursery school waiting lists, art exhibitions and real estate prices were in the air.

“Everyone is so earnest,” said my wife.  “They look like diverse and interesting people.”

“Yes,” I agreed, “but they probably don’t know a thing about ACC basketball.”

We were seated in a relatively quiet corner, and there were no dishes or silverware on our table.

“We don’t have any…” I began, but then noticed that every table was devoid of utensils.

“You eat with your fingers,” said Kelly.

“Do we get plates?” I asked, undaunted, but trying to recall everything I had touched in the last half hour.

“No,” she said.  “They will put all the food on one board in the middle of the table and we sop it up.”

“Sop?  I’ve never been much of a sopper.”

“Yes,” she said.  “They give you a big piece of pancake-like bread.  It’s sort of spongy and you break off pieces and… you grab the food with it.  It’s called injera.”

I looked down at the menu.  It would not be good to be born a goat in Ethiopia.  After a bit of debate among the ladies, we chose four items that approximated lentils with goat, spices with goat, beans with goat and a vegetarian amalgam of lentils, spices and beans.  I looked at the people communally pushing and smushing their food at the neighboring table and was relieved that all of us were healthy.

The waiter brought our drinks and we talked about the highlights of the visit, so far.  We’d walked across the Brooklyn Bridge and we’d seen the new sports arena.  We’d enjoyed Kelly and Laura’s new brownstone and its garden.  The waiter emerged from the kitchen with one large board, as Kelly had explained, and placed it in the middle of our table.  It carried a round portion of injera for each of us and our four entrees represented by four mounds of brown-red, food-related mush.  It was as though Jackson Pollack had taken over the kitchen.

Any resemblance to baby food, however, was dispelled with the first taste.  I expected, at some point, to request extra napkins due my inexpertness in mastering sopping.  But I did not entirely foresee the sweat that emerged from every pore on my body as a result of the spices.  Much hilarity ensued as I appeared to have just emerged from a shower.

“This is quite a business model,” I noted.  “No table cloth, no silverware, no plates, just lots of napkins. I’d like to open a franchise.  I’ll call it ‘Splat.’”

“Do you like it?” they all asked me.

“It’s definitely flavorful,” I said.  And I was not lying.  The tastes were stimulating and far different from anything else I had eaten.

“Would you eat Ethiopian again?” asked my wife.

I looked down at my dirty fingers and felt my sweating forehead.  Was this the sort of experience I would want to repeat?

“I’m not sure,” I replied, “but I admit the choice was good.  I am far more likely to remember my Ethiopian meal for the rest of my life than any other restaurant we might have chosen.”


LATIN LOVER

 

Attending law school and becoming a lawyer were never aspirations of mine.  However, with graduation looming and the prospect of teaching MacBeth to seventh graders completely unappealing, I became just another Dickinson English major signing up to take the LSAT’s.

In some ways, 1977 was a period not unlike the present.  We wore similar clothing, though more colorful than now.  Hair styles were scruffy, but not as different from now as those of the Founding Fathers’, for instance.  We traveled by car and plane, and we rooted for most of the same teams.

In other ways, however, the late 1970’s were positively paleo-lithic.  There were no personal computers, cellphones or test-taking preparation courses.  My LSAT preparation consisted of gathering two pencils and walking to the designated classroom.  I may have had a cup of coffee in the expectation that it would increase my alertness and stamina for the three hour test.  Red Bull did not yet exist.

The LSAT was not even the most important event of the day; we had a soccer game scheduled only one hour after the conclusion of the test against our main rival, F & M, and I took the test dressed in my uniform.  Any sweaty palms or pounding heartbeats that I experienced that morning were more attributable to the game than to the LSAT.

Nine months later, I found myself enrolled in law school at George Washington University.  The run-up for me had less to do with preparing for a profession than the logistics of moving and finding an apartment.  When I finally focused on what lay ahead, only three or four days remained before the first class.  My brother had kindly given me an old law dictionary as a “good luck” gift, and I opened it for the first time.  It consisted primarily of Latin phrases.  “Can’t hurt to memorize these,” I convinced myself.

So it came to pass that I was conversant in the style of legal argument last prevalent around 1700.  I learned that res ipsa loquitor is a great phrase to accompany throwing up one’s arms to indicate: “What else can I say?”  Quid pro quo is a succinct formulation for “if you scratch my back, I’ll scratch yours.”  And, my favorite, post hoc ergo proptor hoc, means, roughly, “because it happened after that doesn’t mean it happened because of that.”  Along with about twenty other such nuggets, I headed to my first class.

As soon as I arrived in the back row of Contracts, I realized I was in trouble.  No one else was speaking in Latin.  And my cavalier attitude about law school, though shared by a fair number of refugees from the liberal arts, was not shared by everyone.   When I noted to the girl alphabetically placed beside me, that there were only 1,090 days until graduation, she looked appalled and informed me, icily:  “I’ve wanted to be a lawyer since I was five years old and no one with a bad attitude is going to ruin it for me.”  I was persona non grata for the remainder of the semester.

The following weekend, our class was invited by the law school to a picnic at a park in Northern Virginia.  This event formed the totality of the social orientation program.  I looked forward to an informal afternoon of hot dogs and volleyball until I saw that several of my classmates arrived in suits.  It was 93 degrees!

Because I apparently failed to give off the right “Do Not Approach” vibe, a long-standing problem for me, one of the suited attendees strode right up to me and offered a firm handshake.  He told me his name in a strong Boston accent, and demanded:  “What was yaw bawd skaw?”

“What?” I asked, uncomprehending.

“What was yaw bawd skaw?  Mine was six-fawty,” he said.

I realized he was asking what I scored on the LSAT.  I had the presence of mind to add one hundred points to reality before responding, which effectively shocked him.  But I still found myself stunned by yet another early encounter with a law school classmate.  The first year of law school was destined to be my annus horribilis.


THIS IS IT

 

Angel Velez always tried to establish a connection despite our obvious differences.  To that end, he plied me with doughnuts and regaled me with stories he hoped would entertain.  Angel and I spent time together when my parents vacationed and my father conscripted me to manage his clothing store in a run-down section of Philadelphia.  Angel was the full-time salesman and, since my father only agreed to go away during the slowest periods of the year, we were rarely interrupted by customers.

Angel never ate breakfast before coming to work but invariably brought a bag containing four doughnuts from La Isla Bakery down the street, and insisted that I eat at least two.  He urged me to have three, but after we went through a ritual of his cheerful offers and my determined refusals, he took the last doughnut.

Thus, it was not unusual for me to be sitting on a stool amidst piles of pants and racks of shirts, munching away, trying to think of something to talk about with Angel Velez.

“What station do you want?” Angel asked, as he tuned the radio.

“Anything you want,” I replied.

“No, really, we should listen to your favorite.”  He was insistent.

Angel and I had nothing in common.  I had gone to a private high school and was studying pre-law in college at the time of this recollection.  Angel was a high school dropout with a marginal ability to sell clothes.  He was fiercely proud of his Puerto Rican heritage, though he had only ventured out of his neighborhood in North Philadelphia one time in his life, when he mistakenly drove across the bridge to New Jersey and did not have the necessary toll money.  Over the years, I listened several times to his boisterous re-telling of how he begged for quarters from vagrants on the Camden side in order to return.  Angel thought the story was hilariously funny.  I thought it was sad, though I always tried to laugh along with him.

Since he did not know how to prioritize expenditures, Angel spent his money on embellishments for his Chevy Nova, including racing tires and extra chrome.  He did not obtain these items from stores but rather from “some guys, friends of my step-brother.”  I was relieved when I did not encounter Angel’s acquaintances; my father instructed me to be extra-vigilant if any entered the store.  Meanwhile, a necessary operation on his two-year-old daughter’s cleft palate had been delayed.

Angel never tired of hearing about my two trips to Puerto Rico.   I could not fathom how he failed to show even a hint of jealousy.  He also seemed intensely interested to hear about life at college, especially about living arrangements.  “You mean girls live in your dorm?” he repeated, in an insinuating tone, accompanied by a wink.  We both tried hard to keep the conversation going, though I am certain my unwillingness (and unstated inability) to offer salacious details was disappointing.

Though Angel talked more than I would have liked, particularly when I had a book or newspaper to read, I do not recall his speaking voice or any particular expressions, with one notable exception: “This is it” was Angel’s mantra.  He used it to sum up everything.  He said it when it began to rain.  He said it when a customer, who had sent him scurrying up and down ladders and, in fact, all over the store, left without a purchase.  He said it when he ran out the door to whistle at a passing girl and she ignored him.   I imagine that Angel said “This is it” to manage his own disappointment with life, to express it in terms of inevitability and not something he could change.  It was his way of staying unbowed.

I never thought about Angel when I was not with him.  And, in spite of his persistent efforts, I did not enjoy his somewhat saccharine friendliness.  When my father sold the store a few years later, I did not inquire what became of Angel.  I have forgotten him almost entirely, except to recall how he tried to interact with me, and to marvel how he maintained such a degree of outward optimism.  Deep down, did he feel differently?  If I had asked, I imagine he would have said:  “This is it.”

My final memory is what happened one morning when I mentioned that doughnuts go best with coffee.  A few minutes later, Angel emerged, smiling, from the small kitchen at the back of the store, with a huge mug of coffee for me, and a glass of water for himself.


A SHORT HISTORY OF DANCE LESSONS

 

Some men are meant to dance.  Travolta, Nureyev, Astaire.  And then there is me.   Lessons have been pitched to me three times, and three times I have swung and missed.  I play tennis and soccer.  I like music.  How is it possible that I cannot dance?

The first lessons were scheduled in anticipation of my wedding.  I was thirty.  After an introductory class with several other couples I agreed to a series of lessons, but only if they were private.  My suffering could not be a public spectacle.  After all, I was certain that whatever I was doing on the dance floor was of supreme interest to any person within viewing distance.

On a rational level, I know that the foregoing sentence is silly.  Yet, I cling to it, still.  When I am dancing, every eye in the room is on me and my hopelessly self-conscious movements.

The instructor was a petite blonde.  She was of indeterminate Eastern European extraction.  We were to focus on the basics, namely:  the box step, the foxtrot and the cha-cha (or is it cha-cha-cha?).  In the almost-certainly correct view of the instructor, all of my efforts were deficient.   If I managed proper timing, my head was facing down.  If I held my head up, my frown of concentration was showing.  If I shortened my stride, my timing was off.  If I lengthened my stride, I stepped on my partner’s feet.

While we were engaged, my wife and I were at a resort that had a dance-night.  I hadn’t made clear to my dance-loving fiancé that I did not dance.  I had to sit awkwardly at our table while she was swept away by an 87-year-old man to dance something called the Peabody.  I had never even heard of the Peabody.  I digress.

By the third of our six lessons, I graduated from the box step to the foxtrot.  There were apparently choices to be made in terms of speed, both of the music and of the foot movements.  I chose the slower option on all fronts.  My pace was torpid.  All of the music seemed to be Rod Stewart.    I hate Rod Stewart.

I found that my arms were more competent than my feet.  There were several twirl moves that I was capable of completing with modest success.  Woe is a dance partner of mine who does not like to spin.  Unfortunately, when twirling my partner, my legs revert to pure shuffling, without even a hint of connection to the music.  This presents a problem when the maximum possible reasonable amount of twirling is at an end.

At the sixth and final pre-wedding lesson the focus had narrowed to merely having me appear competent while dancing our wedding song.  It shocked me, therefore, when the teacher came to a miraculous discovery.  Sounding like a cross between the Bride of Frankenstein and Dr. Ruth, she said:  “You are picking up your feet with each step.  You should be gliding.”

“Yes, well,” I stammered, confident that I had been moving my feet exactly the same since the first day.

“You are doing it wrong!” she sputtered, as though I had not been in front of her for nearly six hours.

I was too stunned to ask why I was learning this at the end of the final lesson.  If a tennis player were holding the racket backwards, wouldn’t an instructor realize during the early stages of the first lesson?  Anyway, with the wedding three days away, we resolved not to mess with my fragile technique and I ultimately marched my way through a wedding performance that… no one criticized at all, at least not to my face.

At least fifteen years passed before my next set of dance lessons.  These were presented as a non-choice choice by my wife who explained that “all the ladies in her women’s support group were going to take them along with their husbands or boyfriends’”  It was important, she said, for the “couples” to do something together.

“Couldn’t we play cards?” I asked.   “How about volleyball or tennis?”

“It has to be something that is challenging and that all the couples can do together at the same time.”

“Cooking?  We could cook.  It could be like ‘The Big Chill,’” I suggested.

“They dance while they cook in ‘The Big Chill.’”

She had me.

The group lessons were instructive in several respects.  First, I learned I am not the only male with my problem.  Perhaps, there should be a support group for non-dancing men.  Second, and this is a good thing, we are a more compatible couple than many others, even without my ability to dance.  There was constant tension between the other couples, with strained expressions and snarky comments more the rule than the exception.  Third, the only thing more awkward for me than dancing with my wife is dancing with a partner who is not my wife.

The six couples came together for their first lesson on a weekend afternoon.  The instructor, again, was a petite European woman, but she was the owner of the particular studio and, as such, had a solicitous nature.  She acted as though she really cared and as if she sincerely believed that for several couples among us, this would doubtless be the beginning of a lifetime of ballroom dancing.

“Imagine,” she said, pointing to posters around the studio, “participating in competitions all over the country.”

I shuddered.

Among our six couples, one clearly had danced a lot.  The husband was actually more adept than the wife and was delighted to show off his skill whenever the instructor needed to demonstrate.  The rest of the males hung back, just hoping to avoid attention.  Having had a decade to contemplate it, I concentrated on keeping my feet close to the floor.  The focus was to be dancing the “swing,” which was fortunate, I thought, since that involves a lot of twirling.  The first hour went quickly enough with time wasted on introductions, demonstrations and explanations.  There was little actual movement by most of us and my deficiencies went undiscovered by the instructor and, perhaps, were even shielded, for once, from my wife.

After the first lesson, the couples went, by pre-arrangement of the women, to an Italian restaurant for dinner.  Though I was not enthused about the prospect of joining a bunch of strangers for what amounted to dinner around four o’clock, I was apparently among the cheerier male participants.  Two of the men learned about dinner for the first time at the end of the dance lesson and were clearly unhappy.  One had planned to watch a game on TV and the other planned to go to his gym to work out.  I witnessed a third couple sparring as they exited their car.  My resigned cooperation felt smugly satisfying.

Service was spotty at the restaurant.  Perhaps staffing was limited at that time of day.  In any event, when the meal finally ground to a conclusion, it was clear that the post-lesson dinner was to be a one-time event.   Only five couples showed up for the second lesson.  The missing couple was said to be ill.  We worked on our swing steps, and I enjoyed the relative anonymity of a group lesson.  I also derived some degree of confidence from the incompetence of the other men.  The instructor even complimented me for one of my twirls and made me blush, but I soon realized that she complimented everyone for something.  My wife thought there was hope.

In the third week, the “ill” couple was apparently still “ill.”  And another man was missing due to a rare weekend “business meeting.”  His wife appeared alone, looking uncomfortable.  The instructor decided it would be nice to rotate the men from partner to partner so that the single woman would have an equal chance.  “It’s good to learn with different partners,” she said, to a skeptical audience.

Having been successfully married for fifteen years, it was a revelation to re-learn that women can be lumpy in all sorts of places.  Shoulders and butts can be massive and breasts can be pendulous or flat.  Until you are trying to put your hands around someone and move them, you really cannot know.  Also, unless you are physically close to someone, you do not know how much they sweat, or if their breath is sweet.  Perhaps, accentuated by the anxieties of a group dance lesson, all of these atmospheric variables were acute.

By the fifth and final lesson, only three couples remained.  If only I had had the foresight to develop the “Survivor” concept with regard to dance lessons.  I felt reasonably competent in a slow, not-very-creative version of the “swing.”  I watched the clock.  I delighted in seeing the extent to which the show-off guy was dominating the instructor’s time.  I made sure my wife noticed how irritated his wife was becoming.  And then, it was over.  There may not be any connection, but it did not surprise me when the women’s support group petered out several weeks later.

A Groupon presaged my third and most recent (I dare not say “final”) dance lesson experience.  A studio in a neighboring town was offering a “FREE INTRODUCTORY CLASS.”

“How could we pass that up?” asked my wife.

“How could we not?” I asked, already doomed.

We arrived at the studio where a sign proclaimed:  “New Owners!!!  Fully Renovated!!! Goups Forming!!!”

“What’s a goup?” I asked.

My wife told me to hush.

Our instructor was anxiously waiting.  Alexander was fresh off the boat, or however it is that Russian immigrants arrive nowadays.  He apologized for his English which we could not understand.  Then he apologized for the studio which, he eventually communicated, had an electrical problem.

“Could you, maybe, please, sir and madam, come back next week?” he asked.  “Maybe have music next week.”

“It’s a pretty long round trip,” we responded.

“Round trip?” he repeated, uncomprehending.   “Your lesson, sir and madam, of course, please, will be, how do you say, discounted.”

“It was already supposed to be free,” we pointed out, showing the Groupon.

“Oooooh,” Alexander stammered.   “Let me explain, please, my friends.  That piece of paper is, you might understand, for the old owner.  Not my owner.  You see?”  He pointed to the sign.

We looked at each other and recognized that this was not going well.  Having been mildly cooperative, it appeared that I had dodged another dance lesson opportunity with my dignity and my marriage intact.  I formulated in my mind, as we left, that I might never have to do this again.  Upon our return home, however, a thick envelope filled our mail box.  “Dance the Night Away!” proclaimed the invitation.  I could only groan.

 


The story below is my first to be published. the Independent, a local cultural and literary weekly, chose it from several hundred entries for its annual pet issue. So, sorry to those who have seen it already, but one can never have enough pet stories, can one?

CUBBIE

Cubbie was a Persian cat who accumulated his twenty pound girth with a temperament so phlegmatic that we wondered if he experienced normal brain impulses. His abundant orange fur-ball moved from one lounging spot to another throughout each day at a pace that would have left a tortoise itching for activity. Cubbie ate, napped and relieved himself with regularity. He rarely sought our attention, and only indulged our desire to pet his lush fur with an air of supreme disinterest.
Cubbie’s interaction with my father was even more limited. Each morning, my father was the first to go downstairs. He discovered Cubbie’s nightly contribution to the litter box with an audible declaration of disgust that somehow never failed to convey surprise.
My father left the cleaning of the box and the replenishment of Cubbie’s food dish to me or my mother, but he hastened to open the kitchen door and shoo Cubbie out to the stoop. It was as though he felt the odor would follow the cat.
Mice had nothing to fear from Cubbie. He sat outside with obvious discomfort. If a leaf blew by or a bird chirped, he would raise himself laboriously to paw at the screen door. My father never relented; only my mother or I would allow Cubbie in.
As Cubbie matured his movement slowed. When he was about eight, the vet advised that he had arthritis. We noticed that Cubbie rarely climbed to the second floor and, by his tenth year, he no longer climbed or jumped onto furniture. If we wanted Cubbie to be able to look out the window, we would gather him from underneath with two hands and lift his jelly-like body to the sill. We made sure to lower him just as carefully if we left the room.
Despite his infirmity, Cubbie’s conservation of energy resulted in longevity, as he lived year after year on the first floor. When Cubbie was approaching twenty, my father was rushed to the hospital for what turned out to be his final days. When we returned that night from an exhausting and upsetting day of keeping vigil, Cubbie was not present.
My mother and I were frantic and each assumed that the other, preoccupied with my father’s condition, had locked Cubbie out on the stoop. We searched outside with a flashlight and finally gave up, hoping that if he were okay, Cubbie would return in the morning.
We went upstairs and were shocked to find Cubbie’s massive orange body comfortably astride my father’s pillow. Whether it was a sense of foreboding or loyalty that drove him, Cubbie was offering a tribute to the man who had banished him to the stoop each morning. He had dragged his body up the stairs for the first time in a decade and somehow leapt onto the bed.
We thought little activity took place within Cubbie’s mind, but we were wrong. More inscrutable than a poem by Emily Dickinson, something profound had taken place.


BASHFUL LIPS

Only through default and seniority did I find myself the first trumpet in my high school orchestra. It was not that the other two trumpeters had more talent or less talent than I; it was that NONE of us had any talent whatsoever. So, since I was the only senior, I was designated first chair. As such, when the holiday show loomed, I was responsible for playing the melody line for a brass quartet that serenaded the audience with Christmas carols as they found their seats.
Our quartet stood in the rear corner of the gymnasium beneath a practice basketball hoop and adjacent to the restrooms. The guests were mostly adults, accompanied by their children, who had been urged to attend by their teachers. While holiday shows at schools with major musical arts programs are doubtlessly entertaining, perhaps even thrilling, my small school produced a show more out of habit and obligation than inspiration. Accordingly, I approached my star turn unenthusiastically. Since the carols were familiar and musically simple, my conscious anxiety level was minimal.
My sub-conscious apparently felt differently. As Mrs. Arditi, the Spanish teacher/orchestra conductor lowered her baton to launch our version of “God Rest Ye Merry Gentlemen,” I pursed my lips over the mouthpiece, positioned my tongue properly between my teeth, blew, and… absolutely no sound issued forth.
The trombone and second trumpet beside me soldiered on, “boo, ba, boo, ba,” etc. Even Jimmy Prall, the French hornist who had never in his life hit a note cleanly and on time, was producing sounds. But from the first trumpet, nothing, nada, zilch.
People turned to stare. Mrs. Arditi appeared to be apoplectic, her face contorting as her eyes grew huge. “Boo, ba, boo, ba,” my cohorts continued. I blew harder and… nothing. I became tenser and tenser, my face red with embarrassment and exertion, but still, not a sound. I took the trumpet from my lips for a moment and tried to separate from my own body. I thought it might help if I could witness the calamity that was occurring to me as though it were happening to someone else. I glanced around for an escape route. I feared Mrs. Arditi might faint.
The “Merry Gentlemen” finally rested, though my non-performance meant that no one in the audience was aware of the identity of the intended piece. My three cohorts turned towards me and tried desperately to stifle laughter. Mrs. Arditi instructed us to turn to “We Three Kings of Orient Are” and screwed up her face as though to beg my cooperation.
I shrugged helplessly, hoping for a better result. Alas, none came. Our quartet commenced another carol without a melody. I pursed my lips. I sucked in more air. I blew harder. Nothing. Some of the audience began to titter and point. Mrs. Arditi stopped us in the middle.
“I’m so sorry,” she announced to the audience. I heard some scattered applause and relieved laughter. But most people quickly returned their attention to their conversations and their
search for seats. I knew that my musical performance career had ended that evening. The next day, I saw Mrs. Arditi in the hallway and told her I was sorry.
“What happened?” she asked.
Lacking any explanation, I decided to try humor. “I thought I was playing ‘Silent Night.’”
For some reason, she was not amused.